The destination’s popularity arose after a visit from Brigitte Bardot and her Brazilian boyfriend Bob Zagury in 1964. The town was truly grateful and built a statue in her honour, and now the destination is so popular, that it can even be referred to as the Saint-Tropez of Brazil. The high season runs from December 15th to March 15th. The centro (or town centre) is charming and very small and you will be able to find almost everything on the main street called Rua das Pedras (Stone St).

Where to Stay

In Buzios your best bet is to stay at one of the charming pousadas the peninsula has to offer. The destination is well equipped with some all purpose resorts like Breezes Buzios and Serena Buzios however the pousadas (B&B) and boutique hotels are a must for those wishing to embrace the charming and relaxed style of Buzios.

One of the most famous boutique hotels is Casas Brancas, located right on the beach and is 2 minutes walking distance from centro. This luxurious boutique hotel, with haute cuisine, unique massage therapies and fabulous guest rooms will certainly make for a dream vacation. The Villa Rasa Marina is the newest boutique hotel in Buzios, located on Praia Rasa. The water is very calm which makes for a great place to relax. The hotel offers yoga lessons and is known for its soothing massages and healthy appeal.

A great pousada to relax but not miss out on any happenings going on downtown is Pousada Corsário. This cute B&B is located on Praia dos Ossos, and offers a versatile environment with a game room and playground for the kids and sauna and a pool for the adults. Another pousada close to the little village is Pousada Byblos (above), only 3 minutes away from downtown and also walking distance to Praia dos Ossos, Azeda and Azedinha beaches. Each room is uniquely decorated, and the service is truly personalised. You can even choose to have your breakfast at the pool or in your room. Porto Bay Glenzhaus is an inn full of charm with 17 suites immersed in the tropical environment of Buzios, as well as being walking distance from the village.

If you’re looking for a pousada with a fabulous view, Pousada da Azeda will blow you away. Located in a small colony of Atlantic Forest preservation, overlooking the Praia dos Ossos, João Fernandes and Azeda; the inn offers a great pool, sauna and gym area and a unique place to relax that will fit your budget.

Beaches

Buzios is the perfect destination to spend your days lying on the beach and catching a fabulous tan. There are 23 beaches to choose from, so make sure you know which one to pick before heading out for a day in the sun. One of the most famous beaches is Praia de Geribá; this is where most of the trendy restaurants are located and some of the best New Year’s parties. A good tip is to spend your day at the Fishbone Café, here they offer a great beach lounge with house music and good drinks. This beach is also family friendly, and attracts surfers for its good wave formations. The next beach, Praia da Ferradura, is a great water sports beach. You will see many jet skiers, windsurfers and even divers around this beach, and there are many kiosks with food, drinks and even massages available.

The inns on Praia da Ferradura are very well located, as centro is only minutes away. This next neighbouring beach, named as a smaller version of the previous beach, Praia da Ferradurinha is one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil. The white sand forms natural salt-water pools and the rocks surrounding the beach turn it into a charming enclosure. The kiosks are not so elaborate here, but offer the basics. It’s a great place to kayak or go for a romantic stroll on the beach. Praia de João Fernandes is for the young crowd who love a beach party. There are many restaurants with traditional Brazilian tunes and good snacks to choose from. The beach is surrounded by inns, hotels and luxury condominiums, its worth renting an apartment during high season, especially for the New Year.

On the other side of the peninsula you will find Praia Rasa; this beach is very secluded, and offers calm waters with a good breeze, which attracts windsurfers. There are many private and vacation homes here, and no kiosks. Praia da Tartaruga is quite popular among tourists and offers a wide variety of kiosks and restaurants on the beach. There is a unique rock formation which divides the sand strip in two, with warm waters to swim in. The beaches Praia Azeda e Azedinha can be accessed by land, however taking a water taxi makes for a beautiful ride. The beach forms a large pool with crystal clear calm waters. The miniature version (Azedinha) can be accessed by Azeda and is so tiny that you can explore it in 40 steps. Two beaches with picture perfect postcard beauty are Praia dos Ossos and Praia do Recanto. These are great beaches for hikes so you can soak up the marvellous view.

Restaurants and Bars

During the day, your best bet is to snack at the kiosks scattered along the beaches. Most of them offer grilled snapper, shrimp and squid caught the same day! For those looking for a gastronomic visit, spend the day on Praia da Ferradura, here you will find a few options: a great pick is a crispy shrimp cake that you can get at Samuca Bar. Another good pick is at Praia Brava, here you can try the ceviches at Rock Beach Restaurant & Lounge. In José Gonçalves, there are the famous crab cakes from Ranieri, while in the bustling Geribá, the açaí and fulfilling sandwiches are good at the Fishbone Café. Aside from this cafe in Geribá, another good music environment with a five star cuisine is Patio Havana (below). Here you can enjoy the best seafood and a varied selection of wines.

You must reserve at least one day to go to Chez Michou. The crepes, with many different fillings, have been a hit for over twenty years! Other favourites are the dried meat with cheese sandwich and the classic Alessandro, with cheese, ham, tomatoes and oregano. For dessert get the crispy banana with chocolate and vanilla ice cream – unbeatable! Another delicious choice for a good desert is Café Maré Mansa, who are famous for their banana cake with chocolate. A tasty ice cream choice is Mil Frutas, which has ice cream cake and guava cheesecake flavours! For those wishing to get out of the hotel routine and explore the village, try Estância Don Juan, an Argentine restaurant with three different environments and good choices of meat. One of my favorites though has to be Salt, a newly opened restaurant on the Orla Bardot. The charming restaurant is nestled in green vegetation and has a rustic-chic decoration with tables on the deck that overlook the seafront. The food is impeccable, signed by Ricardo Ferreira, and the music makes for a great ambience.

Written by Brazilian Guru, a travel blog written directly from Brazil! Check us out for travel tips, good restaurants, fabulous parties, beautiful beaches and only the best of Brazil.

Top image by Lorando Labbe

Boipeba – much-hyped in recent years as the hot, new, unspoilt Brazilian beach destination – certainly runs the risk of suffering this fate. One of the islands of the Tinharé archipelago, off the southern stretch of the coast of Bahia state, Boipeba is undoubtedly a paradise.

Boasting over fifteen miles of totally unspoilt, white sand, palm-fringed beaches, and with a hypnotically simple island way of life, the promise of total relaxation, a perfect escape from urban Salvador. Because of its remoteness, Boipeba has so far been spared the rigorous development that has, over the last 20 years, transformed nearby Morro de São Paulo. Whichever route you choose, the journey invariably involves a long and complicated combination of boats, buses, ferries or four-wheel drives.

Every little helps

There are positive signs that, learning from the mistakes of the past, Boipeba’s caretakers may be successful in pioneering a much more sustainable model of tourism. AMABO, the Association of Residents and Friends of Boipeba, put together a Sustainable Development Plan with the aims of balancing the economic growth that incoming tourism generates with the needs of the local population, whilst minimising the environmental damage.

“Boipeba’s not the place to come if you’re looking for parties” Cristina told me, as we sat on the veranda of her pousada, Casinha Amarela, basking in the evening warmth of yet another beautiful day. “If you want parties, stick to Morro de São Paulo. The people who make the effort to get here, hopefully, appreciate Boipeba’s natural marvels, the unspoiltness.” Cristina, who moved from Rome some years ago and now balances her vocation as the island’s photographer with running a small pousada, is adamant that visitors to the island must recognise their impact on the environment – and, preferably, give something back.

The local library – a venture started by Cristina – encourages tourists to donate books at the end of their holiday for the community’s use. The friendly young librarian, Albino, jumped at the chance to practise his English with us as he explained how the library worked and the various community art and literacy projects
it hosts. The library, as well as the fairly recent introduction of the internet, is affording the previously cut-off Boipebans access to a wealth of information. And, apparently, the opportunity to learn foreign languages is one of the benefits that tourism brings to Boipeba.

Cristina actively encourages her guests and other visitors to think about what they could offer, and then organises skills-exchange workshops. Recently, for example, visiting doctors have run free healthcare
workshops for the villagers. “It’s all by word of mouth” she told me “but this is the kind of place where you tell five people, and they tell five people… and soon enough the whole village knows about it.”

Leandro, who recently finished building the luxurious Pousada Mangabeiras, situated at the top of a hill with impressive views over the long empty beaches, explained how the pousada had to conform to a strict set of building controls, which he supports. “We’re proud that we didn’t cut down a single tree to construct our pousada” he told me. “We designed the place around the natural habitat.” Other measures taken included installing solar panels and a water tower, which as well as making use of the rainwater, provides a stunning 360 degree view of the island.

When to go

Boipeba is a lush tropical island that often tops the 30°C mark and has light showers at the end of the day. Throughout the year the average temperature is 27°C and the rainy season runs from April to July. The island’s two main events are the Divino Espírito Santo feast day, which takes place on the seventh Sunday after Easter in Velha Boipeba and a special festivity in honour of the sea Goddess Iemanjá on the 2nd February, featuring a maritime procession and a lively party afterwards.

How to get there

Getting to Boipeba from Salvador is time-consuming and best combined with a stop-over on the island of
Cairú, connected to the mainland. There are boat services to Boipeba from the villages of Torrinhas (1hr), Cairú (1h20) and Graciosa (1h40). There are organised boat tours from Morro de São Paulo and a lengthy tractor service (which cuts across several beaches and a shallow river). A much quicker and stress-free route is the daily bi-motor plane flight from Salvador (30 min), but which doesn’t go down so well with the environmentally-conscious locals.

Getting around

Neighbouring Morro de São Paulo is the most popular destination in the region, famous for its attractive coastline, lively nightlife and beach raves – stop off on your way to or from Boipeba rather than spending just a day there. On the mainland the nearby fishing villages of Barra Grande and Camamu are an oasis of tranquility and deserted beaches. Before leaving Bahia state make sure to soak up the rich Afro-Brazilian heritage of urban Salvador.

Where to stay

Casinha Amarela is a cosy pousada run by the charismatic Cristina, the person to talk to to get involved in the island’s social projects. Mangabeiras is a great place to appreciate the natural beauty of the island – even more so from one of the hammocks laid out on the private balconies of the bungalows. A stone’s throw from the beach, Pousada Horizonte Azul is situated in a well-tended tropical garden. The best budget options include two campsites: Recanto dos Pássaros and Pôr do Sol in Velha Boipeba.

Eat, drink & have fun

In Velha Boipeba, the Panela de Barro restaurant comes highly recommended for its fresh, traditional Bahian
food. Make a point of trying out an acarajé (spicy bean fritters filled with prawns) at one of the stalls in the main square. Another option is to head to one of the floating oyster bars where you can eat oysters straight from the sea, but you’ll need to hire a boat to get there. Word-of-mouth is the best way to find out what’s
going on in the evening but the usual suspects are the Toca do Reggae bar and the hard to find (take a local along) Pagoda Illuminada, where DJs play axé and reggae.

Top 5 Things To Do

1. Deserted beaches – Most people congregate around the two main beaches but a short amble and you’ll find you’ve got one to yourself.

2. Explore the coast and the forest early morning on horseback.

3. Watch life go by, sipping a caipirinha with ginger and making new friends in Velha Boipeba bars.

4. Carnival in Boipeba – a donkey pulling a cart with a stereo on it. The perfect antidote to Salvador Carnival
mayhem.

5. Long lazy and delicious breakfasts on the veranda of the pousada, wondering how to improve on yesterday’s relaxation!

More info

ilhaboipeba.org.br
boipeba.org
velhaboipeba.com
bahia.com.br

Words by Kat Joyce
Photos by Iuri Kothe

São Paulo is the main financial, commercial and corporate centre of Latin America, hosting some of the most well qualified executives in the world. Since there are no beautiful beaches nearby to distract Paulistas (São Paulo city inhabitants) most of their lives are dedicated to their jobs.

The luxury market is very large in São Paulo, which is proud to be the 6^th city with most billionaires in the world, according to Forbes Magazine. With 21 billionaires and many more millionaires, the city has attained the largest fleet of helicopters in the world! Don’t be deluded though; there is still a lot of poverty and violence that haunts the city.

São Paulo is also host to some of the best restaurants, bars, night clubs and events which makes it a very fun city for outing. Just don’t mind the heavy and hectic traffic, pollution and noise of the big city. Much like NY, if you know the right places to go, you will have a blast!

Hotels
Picking were to stay can be tricky. There are hundreds of hotels in the city, so make sure you know what neighbourhood you want to stay at before you choose a hotel. Some well known hotels include the Melia chain hotels with many locations, the Grand Hyatt and the Tivoli Mofarrej which are good executive picks; and of course the fabulous boutique hotels that are staples of the city like Unique, Fasano and Emiliano.

Eating Out
From the moment you awake till late at night there is somewhere you must be eating. São Paulo is a gastronomic pole with foods for all appetites. For breakfast, you must check out the bakery or pastry shops known as “padarias”, you will delight yourself with delicious baked goods. Padarias can be found everywhere in São Paulo, some famous ones include Galeria dos Paes, Bella Paulista, Dona Deola, Emporio Itaim and Julice Boulangere.

The city is especially known for their amazing restaurants with renown chefs from all over the world, some of these Haute Cuisine restaurants include Fasano, Emiliano, Mani, Buddha Bar, Figueira Rubaiyat and D.O.M. If you are in doubt of what restaurant to pick, take a stroll down Rua Amauri in Itaim Bibi, which has amazing eateries to pick from.

If you like sushi, you are in luck, São Paulo is home to the largest Japanese community outside Japan and has the best sushi restaurants, which include Mori Sushi, Jam, and Koi. If you like traditional experiences, you must check out Mercado Municipal and get the Mortadela Sandwich, or check out Ponto Chic and get the Bauru, or maybe even go down to Frangó and try the coxinha and the many types of national and international beers.

Pizzerias are very popular among Paulistas, most pizza restaurants serve the New York style pizza with the thin crust, however you can request the thick crust if you like. Some good pizza restaurants are Casa Braz, A Tal da Pizza, Cristal Pizza and Ritto. The famous meat rodízios (all you can eat) is also a must while in São Paulo, good places to go include, Barbacoa, Rodeio and Fogo de Chão.

Night Life
São Paulo is especially known for it’s good night life. There are great bars to visit and happening clubs to dance at. Some even say, the nightlife in São Paulo is better than in NY! For a sophisticated night out, check the restaurants and bars in Jardins like Brown Sugar and Bar Numero. Later head down to Itaim Bibi and hit up Mynt Lounge a fabulous nightclub. Kiss and Fly, Dorothy and A.F.A.I.R are also happening nightclubs in town. If you are into a more alternative type club, head up to Centro and check out D-Edge, on Monday nights they have rock and roll music! For a quieter night out, take a walk on Rua Aspicuelta in Vila Madalena. For some good beer and chat with friends check out São Bento, Posto 6, José Menino.

Culture and Events
Avenida Paulista is one of the main financial centres of the city, however it also an important entertainment and cultural point with many cinemas, museums, restaurants, coffee shops and bookstores. Many worldwide events have come to São Paulo, including The SPFW . It is not only the most important fashion week in Latin America, but also one of the most creative ones in the world, with outdoor runways and innovating fashion style. This event takes place in the Pavilhão da Bienal in the Ibirapuera Park. This park is like a beach for Paulista, you will see people from all ages enjoying themselves on either a bike or running track or visiting one of the nearby cultural monuments.

If you are into art galleries, São Paulo has some great innovating graffiti art, located outdoors in “Batman Alley” – Beco do Batman in Portuguese. There are also some good museums in the city to check out, some include Museu da Lingua Portuguesa – Museum of the Portuguese language, MASP which is one of the most important museums in Brazil and finally the fun Soccer museum, about the Brazilian soccer history name Museu do Futebol.

Coffee Shops
Plain or with milk, short or double, with or without whipped cream. The Paulista’s are crazy for coffee, but not just any coffee, they are used to a very strong kind which you can’t find in other Brazilian city. Some popular coffee shops are Oscar Café, Boutique Bar Nespresso, Santo Grão, Cafeera. Tip: take a delicious breakfast at Suplicy.

Shopping
Praça Benedito Calixto hosts one of the most charming fairs of the capital, with many antiques, and vintage clothing on Saturdays. A very famous outdoor shopping points in São Paulo is 25 de Março, it is known for its vast quantity of cheap accessories, cloths and home appliances. On the other side of town, you will find Oscar Freire, a high-end street filled with Louis Vuitton, Channel and all designer brands. You can also find these designer brands in luxurious malls like Villa Daslu and Shopping Cidade Jardim. Tip: the movie theatre in Shopping Cidade Jardim is a must!

Architectural Sites
Brazilians are known for their creativity. We have some of the world’s greatest publicists, artists and architects. Oscar Niemeyer is by far the most well known architect of the country, he designed Brasilia, the capital of the country and many more buildings like Edificio Copan, Oca in Ibirapuera Park, and Memorial da America Latina. An interesting building to check out is Edificio Banespa, which is the 3rd highest building in the city where you have a privileged view of Mercado Municipal, Catedral da Sé and Edificio Italia. After Edificio Banespa, you should stroll down to Edificio Italia for a good Italian meal and a great view of the city.

Written by Brazilian Guru, a travel blog written directly from Brazil! Check us out for travel tips, good restaurants, fabulous parties, beautiful beaches and only the best of Brazil.

1. Brazil is a huge country. If you only have one week, what are the must-see attractions?

Brazil is actually more like a continent! Although roughly the same size as the continental U.S., due to transportation options and vast expanses of relatively undeveloped areas, getting around much of Brazil takes time. If I only had a week, I’d really focus on one area—or at the maximum, two.

Iconic tourist sites aside, Rio de Janeiro provides a wonderful introduction since it reunites much of its history as well as spectacular natural features and a unique and intense cultural life. If you add the surrounding attractions of Rio de Janeiro state (Petrópolis, Ilha Grande, Paraty), your week will be up in no time.

If you’re ambitious, add a three-day trip to the states of either Minas Gerais or Bahia, both of which have richly distinctive cultures and histories. In Minas, I’d head to the charming colonial gold mining towns of Ouro Preto, Mariana or São João del Rei. Bahia is equally enticing. Its colonial capital of Salvador is a heady experience that combines exposure to Afro-Brazilian music, culture, and cuisine with access to some of Brazil’s finest beaches.

2. What is the difference between Brazil’s high season vs. off season? What are the benefits to each?

Brazil’s high season coincides with the Southern Hemisphere’s summer and extends roughly from Christmas to the beginning of March. This is when most Brazilians take their vacations and you can expect crowded beaches, high airfares and hotel rates, and hot weather. Brazilians take summer seriously and tend to let down their collective hair more than usual. This ensures an atmosphere that is both more relaxed and festive than other times of the year (it’s no coincidence that Carnaval marks the summer’s climax). Mid-July to mid-August is also considered high season since it coincides with Brazilian students’ winter break and the summer holidays of visitors from the Northern Hemisphere.

With the exception of long holiday weekends, the rest of the year is off season. Depending on when you travel and to what region, the weather might be rainy or even cold. However, you’ll encounter a pace that is less frenetic and destinations (particularly beaches) that are less tourist-infested (and even, for better or for worse, quite isolated). Aside from the tranquility factor, off season is also the best time to travel if you’re on a budget.

3. What is the best way to get around the country?

In recent years, airfare has gotten a lot cheaper as more Brazilian charters have cropped up (recent upstarts include Webjet and Azul). For long or medium distances, flying is definitely the way to go. Bus service in Brazil is very extensive and quite good. The only problem is the time involved—long-distance hauls last for days while on seemingly short local routes, the number of stops really pile up. For this reason, if you want to hit secluded beaches or out-of-the-way rural spots, renting a car can be a very appealing alternative.

4. If you’re staying in Rio de Janeiro, which are the best beaches to visit?

Aside from their physical allure, Rio’s beaches are small microcosms unto themselves. Despite over development and certain tacky elements, Copacabana’s sweeping crescent of white sand is iconic, and a leisurely walk along its boardwalk around sunset is enchanting. Narrower than Copa, eternally hip Ipanema is imperative for those who want to soak up the quintessential Carioca beach scene. Aside from dreamy looking people, you’re surrounded by great restaurants, bars, and boutiques. Two current hot spots for young Carioca beach-lovers are Urca’s Praia Vermelha, a tiny but picturesque beach that lies in the shadow of Sugar Loaf, and the secluded Praia da Joá (that can be reached only by car or taxi). For an idyllic getaway, head to the far-flung Prainha and Grumari; favored by surfers, both are set against jungle covered mountains. While they fill up on weekends, during the week they’re quite secluded.

5. What is your favorite Brazilian cuisine and where do you find it?

Due to its strong African roots, Bahia boasts one of Brazil’s most unique and recognized regional cuisines. Key ingredients include palm oil (dendê), coconut milk, dried shrimp, cilantro and pimenta (hot pepper). You’ll find all of the above (minus the dried shrimp) in moqueca, a stew made with crab, shrimp and/or fish along with tomatoes, onions, and green peppers. If prepared well, this fragrant dish is delicious, and is comparatively lighter than other typical Brazilian recipes. As an adopted baiano, I admit to occasional cravings for acarajé; deep fried fritters made of a fluffy bean puree that are traditionally stuffed with dried shrimp. Acarajés are made and sold by Afro-Bahian women on the streets of Salvador and go down nicely with an icy Coca Cola.

6. What’s the best way to explore the Amazon?

People tend to have a lot of misconceptions about the Amazon. The biggest one is that you’ll show up and instantly be surrounded by virgin rainforest and exotic creatures. These days, virgin forest and larger beasts are hard to come by. Your best and most sustainable bet is to fly into Manaus and get as far away from the city as possible by heading (usually by boat) to a jungle lodge. Jungle lodges are strategically located on rivers such as the Rio Negro or Rio Solimões and make ideal bases for venturing along narrow tributaries—usually in a canoe, accompanied by a guide—and through flooded forests where you’ll view creatures such as pink dolphins, piranhas, and sloths. If you’re very lucky you may even spot a jaguar or the rare, red-faced uakari monkey. The most radically “eco” of them all, the Pousada Uacari, involves a 2-day boat trip (or 1-hour flight) from Manaus, but is ideally situated in the Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reserve, the largest protected patch of flooded rainforest in Brazil.

7. Brazil is host to many festas (festivals), including Carnaval. Describe your three favorite lesser known festas.

Salvador, where I live, is famed throughout Brazil for its many festas. My personal favorite is the one that kicks off the season–the Festa de Santa Barbara (held on December 4). Like many Bahian festas, it honors both a Catholic saint (Santa Barbara), patron saint of firemen and a Candomblé orixá (Iansã), a feisty female divinity associated with thunder and fire. The proceedings take place in Salvador’s colonial center. The best part is the number of devotees who show up dressed in the orixá’s colors of red and white, transforming the narrow streets into a sea of crimson.

For a combination of music and pageantry, it’s hard to surpass Bumba-Meu-Boi. Variations of this popular festa take place throughout the Northeast, but the most fabulous of all is held in Maranhão’s beautiful colonial capital of São Luís. Drawing on indigenous, African, and Portuguese folk elements, Bumba-Meu-Boi consists of a series of theatrical dances performed over several nights in late June. The performers create spectacularly embroidered costumes—including that of an enormous boi (bull)—that would put a Parisian couturier to shame, and the music, anchored by deep, pulsing bumba drums is so hypnotic that it’s impossible not to join in the dancing in the streets.

Meanwhile, a truly unusual festa is the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo, held in Pirenópolis, a historic gold mining town not far from Brasília. The Festa do Divino is held in many places throughout Brazil, but this one features As Cavalhadas, an event in which horsemen, dressed to represent medieval Moors and Christians, recreate a battle fought by Charlemagne during the Crusades (the Moors, of course, are defeated). The overall effect is very surreal and strangely anachronistic, but, once again, the costumes are sumptuous, and the small town gets terrifically festive.

8. Where is the best place to stay for a budget-conscious traveler?

Aside from hotels, Brazil has thousands of pousadas (pousar means to stop or rest), which are generally small, family-run inns or guesthouses. Most boast a home-like atmosphere and friendly service that is a welcome departure from more impersonal hotels. If you plan to stay for a few days or more, you can always negotiate a special price (particularly if you pay in cash). Most often, you’ll find pousadas in small and medium-sized towns, but more and more have been cropping up in large cities.

Traditionally, Brazilian hostels tended towards barracks-style lodgings for college-age backpackers. However, a new generation of hostels has recently emerged featuring simple, but stylish decorative schemes, lots of amenities, and hang-out spaces such as gardens and rooftop lounges. Many also have private double or triple rooms—ideal for couples or families—that are much cheaper than comparable hotel accommodations. Like pousadas, you’ll find quite a few are located in renovated old homes.

Excerpted by arrangement with Avalon Travel, a member of the Perseus Books Group. Copyright © 2011. For more information, or to buy a copy of Moon Brazil or Moon Rio de Janeiro, visit http://www.moon.com.

After all there is no risk of a lack of sunshine. August seems to have cut a deal with the Gods: it rains much less than in summer and the average temperature is 24 degrees, very similar to European summers. It’s a more agreeable climate that still guarantees loads of fun on the beach but that doesn’t suck so much energy in daily and nightly activities. Ideal, for example, for a stroll around the historic quarters of Rio City Centre or for a visit to Lapa. Rio’s bohemian neighbourhood where restaurants, bars and music houses mix up, is unique in the world.

These days a trip to Rio is also a chance to see upclose the change of vibe in the city. As well as important results in the efforts to pacify the favelas, with some now even becoming tourist spots, Rio is also getting ready to be the Olympic City in 2016. The work might complicat a bit traffic in town on one hand. But on the other, Carioca self-esteem has never been higher. Which is always good in the case of people known for being good hosts.

This August will be even more special thanks to a cracking events calendar. For art lovers, two of Rio’s main museums, MAM and MNBA offer a tour through a very special collection of Brazilian painting and sculpture. Sports fans must check the Brazilian leg of the Ultimate Fighting Championship and an incredible succession of local derbies, including Rio’s most popular classico, between Flamengo and Vasco.
What are you waiting for?

OLYMPIC WATCH

While the national preparations for the World Cup have been the subject of criticism, Rio has just been aplauded by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) for its preparations to the 2016 Games. The most recent inspection visit to the city ended up with IOC officials declaring themselves impressed by the City’s progress. Rio has already got more than half of the venues operational or needing minor reforms thanks to the city’s hosting of the 2007 Pan-American Games so it’s the city’s structure that demands more attention.

Barra, which will have 14 venues, is already under massive works for the construction of the Transcarioca, an express bus corridor that will link the region to the Tom Jobim International Airport in only 47 minutes, half of the current journey time. There will be also a new tube line connecting Barra to Ipanema. In total more than 600.000 people will now be able to benefit daily from quicker transportation to downtown Rio.
But the potentially biggest impact could be the revitalisation of Rio’s Docklands, which mayor Eduardo Paes wishes to see transformed in the same way the London Olympics have changed the Stratford region.

What to do in Rio in August
________________________

”Contemporary Genealogies” @ Rio Art Modern Museum

‘‘19th Century Brasilian Art @ National Fine Arts Museum

Ultimate Fighting Championship @ HSBC Arena

Flamengo x Vasco @ Engenhao

When you ask a Baiano about Itacaré you are met with a wistful and distant longing in their eyes and a big smile. Having witnessed the picturesque paradise first hand, I can finally see why. Cradled by the lush green forestry of the Atlantic Rainforest and renowned for its production in cocoa, Itacaré is a small village south of Salvador, on Bahia’s coast. This spectacular landscape boasts waterfalls and over 15 glorious beaches, and its highly preserved ecosystem and sustainable credentials have made it a focal point of the country’s booming eco tourism.

My journey began in the main city of Ilhéus, where the pace of life was welcomingly slower in comparison to the high energy of Salvador. A coach from the main bus station to Itacaré takes you there in just over two hours. It was a tranquil ascent into Bahia’s rural interior where homes constructed amongst the dense forestry and jaw-dropping views of the ocean provide a visual treat.

The conscientious Tourist

The antiquated feel of Itacaré’s historical centre contrasts with the numerous shops, modern bars and restaurants that have been introduced as part of the wave of new development and investment over the last five years; just off the main street a community of pousadas accommodate the thousands of visitors that flock to the region.

Vira Canoa, where I stayed, was a delightful gem. Its bamboo structure has been deliberately constructed in harmony with the island’s vegetation. Everywhere is filled with light and the smell of greenery. An inside/outside ’zen’ space with a combined lounge and bar area opens out onto palm tree-lined gardens. Vira Canoa is one of many local businesses that are part of the Carbon Free Tourism Programme set up to protect the area, whereby companies pay for seedlings planted to offset their footprint. The money goes to the Social Carbon Fund to support environmental conservation, human development and advancement of the area.

The pousada organised for a guide to give me a personal tour of all the special places that Itacaré had to offer. To my surprise, Raí, was a 19 year-old boy from the local area who knew the town and forestry like the back of his hand. His little anecdotes and recollections of the town’s landmarks gave a nice personal touch. One of the highlights was the original church of São Miguel built by the Jesuits at the beginning of the 18^th century, where he and most of the town’s inhabitants have been christened or got married. Just opposite the church is a bay where fishing boats are moored. By day the water reaches just below street level but by night, when the tide has receded, you will often find the local children playing football on the sand.

Natural Harmony

Our first main stop on the tour was Concha beach. It was about 11am, still quiet and yet to be descended upon by tourists, so I had a chance to dip my toe in the emerald waters before moving on to Ribeira and Resende beaches. These were equally chilled spots where capoeira classes often take place, usually organised through your pousada. There are lots of organised group trails through the forests, as well as visits to Itacarezinho – the eco-friendly sea turtle project on offer. There is warm weather all year round and in September – Brasil’s autumn – the weather was heavenly and hot, so trekking in the forest requires sun cream and insect repellent! But if you fancy just roving around the landscape you can rent a bicycle for the day from about £15.

Raí was desperate to show me something special that wasn’t one of the obvious tour destinations. A little off the beaten track was the base for Casa do Boneco – a social project set up for young people to engage with arts, culture and education and to help them excel in all aspects of their lives. I met the founder Jorge de Jesus, who organises shows for the young people to perform in the village and at many of the pousadas. He explained how this and his other project Quilombo do Oitizeiro were part of the efforts to continue to sustain the local community and encourage the preservation of the land.

Jorge wanted to take me to a small island where he is building the equivalent of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant – which will be an addition to the tourist landscape and provide a catering training school for young locals, as well as a bar and restaurant for visitors to dine. This secret excursion also gave me a chance to see and cross the famous Rio de Contas river, which was integral to Itacaré’s role as a port in Bahia’s maritime history.

In a 20-minute canoe ride across amazingly calm waters, I was lucky enough to spot dolphins and other unusual fish. These waters are said to be the origin of life. Of course, no paradise would be complete without its beaches, and for sun worshippers Itacaré has an abundance of these, adorned with coconut groves – still unspoilt and incredibly beautiful. Sandy beaches run around the coast, and the more deserted natural beaches of Jeribucaçu, Engenhoca, Tiririca and Prainha are favourites among surfers, where the stronger waters offer great waves.

Itacaré is a tranquil, welcoming and breathtaking wonderland that has fostered the joyful and unapologetically laid back temperament of its people who live in total harmony with their natural surroundings.
Its beauty as a holiday destination is its somewhat split personality – by day a serene setting promises all the exoticism of Brasil’s interior with wildlife and vegetation, yet by night the bars and restaurants are full and vibrant with that characteristic Bahian party spirit, which is always up for the taking. JD

By Fola Odumosu

Sun, sea, sand, palm trees, beautiful people and a landscape that couldn’t be further removed from Brighton or Cornwall. All these elements make up Maracaípe, on the southern coast of Pernambuco, one of the best places to visit for anyone fleeing the Northern Hemisphere in search of a tropical summer. Situated 65km from the capital, Recife, Maracaípe is already on the tourist map, thanks to its neighbour, Porto de Galinhas, some 2km away. The sheer natural beauty of Maracaípe’s coral reefs, tropical forestry, estuaries and vibrant mangroves attracts visitors from all over. The beach itself is known for its conservation, and as a surfer’s paradise.

The history of this coastal region in Brazil’s northeast has been marred by the trafficking of slaves: it was here that African captives were off-loaded and forced into manual labour. Porto de Galinhas, for example, got its name – meaning Port of Chickens – because the slaves were hidden in crates marked “Angolan Chickens”. The arrival of the “goods” was announced by the code “There are new chickens in the port!”. The name Maracaípe, of Tupi origin, means “the river that sings”, owing to the sound the water makes against the roots of the mangroves.

The huge palm trees, white sands, and clear blue waters of the beach town are enchanting. But Maracaípe (or ‘Maraca’ to those in the know), is as a good a destination for those looking for fun as it is for those who just want to unwind; you’ll find completely deserted areas and others where each square metre of sand is hotly coveted, plus loads of bars,restaurants and hotels.

Some people say Maracaípe reminds them of Pacific islands like Tahiti, or even surfing havens such as Hawaii. With its strong waves, which can reach over two metres, this Pernambucan paradise is also part of the national and international surfing calendar and hosts the Super Surf and Hang Loose Pro Contest events each year. The wave conditions also make it good for another sport practiced by tourists and enthusiasts: kite surfing. But, for the same reasons, bathers should take care when having a dip.

The most frequented part of Maracaípe is Pontal, where you can witness the meeting of the River Maracaípe with the Atlantic Ocean, and where natural swimming pools of warm water form. A good place to take the kids, Pontal has calm waters which are perfect for swimming, kayaking, boating. Around the same area there are also walking paths and snack bars. From the mangroves you can walk to Oiteiro, where you’ll find the Nossa Senhora do Oiteiro church, from where you can enjoy fantastic views and unforgettable sunsets and moonrises.

The preserved mangroves are a regional treasure and there is even a Save Maracaípe campaign to protect them, led by locals, surfers, and other lovers of the beach town, who want to stop the rampant urbanisation and the construction of resorts, which destroy its natural beauty.

There are also two conservation projects, TAMAR and Hippocampus, which protect turtles and sea horses, respectively. A good day-trip tip is to hire a ‘jangada’ raft, and boat around the area where the river meets the sea, taking in the mangroves and seeing the sea horses which rafters often catch in clear glass bottles to release back into the sea. Their colours blend into the water depending on their environment, a natural defense mechanism against predators.

You can get to Maracapé by car along the road which follows the coast all the way down to Vila de Todos os Santos, where the bars and restaurants are almost in the sea.

If you’re going there to surf, there are numerous shacks set up on the sand, ready to serve your every need for a day on the beach, from generous portions of açaí sorbet to fresh seafood. What’s more, this is where the young and beautiful come to hook up and watch live shows on the beach at night. In the summer you’ll find really good, often famous musicians playing here.

The nightlife in Maracapé is great, especially for lovers of reggae and Pernambucan forró. Because of its proximity to Porto de Galinhas, visitors can also enjoy great nights out dancing in the nearby town, from electronica to funk in the clubs, to acoustic, live music in smaller bars.

Almost everyone falls in love with this little piece of paradise, whether owing to its natural beauty, the kindness of the locals, the delicious local cuisine, the surf, or the nightlife.

By Alexandra Menezes & Mirella Carapeba